EXPEDITION TO LENIN PEAK 2020

Trip highlights:

  • Climb the most popular 7,000-meter peak

  • Take a part in ascension by non-technical routes suitable for those who climb 7,000 m peak for the first time

  • Enjoy the variety of Pamir mountain sceneries

  • Feel high-level of support (experienced guides, porters and rescue team)

  • Comfortable accommodation in our base camps and buffet based meal service

  • Discover Asian culture and lifestyle

 

Why with Ak-Sai Travel?

Every year we welcome hundreds of alpinists who appreciate their safety and high quality of the provided service as this is what Ak-Sai Travel put on top of priority. We take every precaution to ensure smooth logistics and for comfortable fully‑inclusive base camp services. Base camp Achik Tash (3600 m) and Camp #1 (4,400 m) offer comfortable conditions of accommodation allowing you to rest and recover after the difficult expedition. Meals are specially balanced for the alpinist term to get enough power for climbing and taste Asian cuisine. Our company marks the route of ascent with landmarks to reach the top successfully. Also, add ropes at the dangerous parts of the route. Entrust your climbing to professionals. We hope you will join us for a life-changing experience!

 

About trip

Lenin Peak, that situated at the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, is the third high from five 7,000 m peaks on the territory of the Post-Soviet Union Space. The classical route to Lenin Peak does not have any steep rock or icy areas. This characterizes the Peak as one of the most accessible 7,000 m peaks. BUT! We have to remember that the actual height of Lenin Peak 7,134 m, that why we may have serious risks with altitude. Successful climb demands a responsible way of organization of any expedition. To join this expedition, you will need an appropriate level of fitness, basic mountaineering skills, prior experience at high altitude and the desire required to reach the summit of 7,000 m mountain.

 

Please look through a proposed itinerary for the Lenin Peak expedition.

This program has two ways how to get to base camp.

1. Via Osh. In this case, you need to fly directly to Osh airport. If you arrive in the morning you can have a transfer to Base Camp Achik-Tash on the same day. With your wishes, you also may stay one day in the hotel and the same as If you arrive afternoon, then you will have a transfer to Base Camp the next day.

 2. Via Bishkek. While you arrive to Bishkek we will provide you airport pick up and transfer to the hotel. The next morning you fly from Bishkek to Osh and then have a transfer to Base Camp on the same day.

 

Day 1.

Arrival in Bishkek. Overnight in the hotel.

Day 2.

Flight to Osh. Transfer to base camp “Achik-Tash”

Day 3.

Acclimatization in the BC, walk to the waterfall.

Day 4.

Acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovskiy Peak

Day 5.

Climb to Camp 1 (4,400 m)

Day 6.

Ice climbing exercises. Ascent to Yuhin Peak (5,100 m). Overnight

Day 7.

Descent to the camp 1 (4,400 m). Getting ready for the ascent

Day 8.

Climb to Camp 2 (5,300 m)

Day 9.

Climb to Camp 3 (6,100 m)

Day 10 - Day 12.

Climb to the Base Camp. Rest days.

Day 13.

Climb to the Camp 1 (4,400 m)

Day 14.

Climb to the Camp 2 (5,300 m)

Day 15.

Climb to the Camp 3 (6,100 m)

Day 16.

The ascent of the Lenin peak summit (7,134 m) and descent to Camp 3.

Day 17.

Descent to the camp 1 (4,400 m)

Day 18.

Descent to the base camp (3,600 m)

Day 19.

Reserve day

Day 20.

Transfer to Osh. Overnight in the hotel.

Day 21.

Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in the hotel.

Day 22

Departure at home.

 

Duration of the program Osh-Osh is 20 days

Duration of the program Bishkek-Bishkek 22 days

DAY BY DAY ITINERARY:

*Note Osh-Osh program start from Day 2.

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to the hotel, hotel accommodation.

Arrival at the airport. After retrieving baggage and passing customs control upon arrival at the “Manas” international airport, you will be met by a representative of the company “Ak-Sai Travel” who will give you all the necessary documents and permits, after which you will be taken to the 3* hotel located in the center of our capital city – Bishkek.

Day 2. Flight to Osh. Transfer Osh-Achik-Tash.

After an early breakfast, the driver will pick you up and take you to the morning flight Bishkek-Osh. In Osh

 you will be met by our representative, and further, on our transport, you will be delivered to the Base

 Camp “Achik-Tash”.

 

Day 3. Acclimatization in the base camp, walk to the waterfall.

After breakfast, the group goes on an acclimatization walk. Return to camp. Lunch. Rest. Checking of the high-altitude equipment.

Day 4. Acclimatization hike to the ridge of the Petrovsky peak.

After breakfast, there would be an acclimatize hike to the ridge. The ascent up to the snow, up to a height of

4000 m. There are spectacular views of the Alai valley and the Achik-Tash tract from the top. Return to Base

 Camp for lunch. Rest, packing stuff for tomorrow trek to camp 1.

 

Day 5. Trek to Camp 1 (4,400 m).

After breakfast, we go camping at 1. The baggage can be sent by horse (for an additional fee). The path goes through the alpine meadows, through the Puteshestvennikov Pass, and further along the slope of the ridge along the Lenin Glacier. The path takes 4-7 hours.

Day 6. Ice climbing lessons. Climb to Yuhin peak 5,200 m. Overnight.

Climbing lessons in the morning. We go through the rules of movement across the glacier, work in a rope team, climb and descent along a fixed rope, skills of self-rescue and rescue of the injured from a glacial fissure. Climbing to Yuhin's peak. Overnight in a fixed tent camp at the top.

 

Day 7. Preparation for the ascent.  

After breakfast, we descend to Camp 1. Rest, packing stuff for tomorrow ascend to camp 2.

Day 8. Climb to Camp 2. (5,300 m). 

We leave at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin Peak. Moving on crampons, in rope teams, crossing glacial cracks. The transition takes 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in camp 2. Self-cooking.

Day 9. Climb to Camp 3. (6,100 m).

We leave at 9 am. In some meters a steep rise to the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again a steep ascent to the top of the Razdelnaya Peak. Moving on crampons in rope team. The average transit time is 4-6 hours. Overnight in camp 3, Self-cooking.

Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3600 m.

Early in the morning, we start the descent from camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving on crampons in rope team. Lunch in camp 1. After lunch, descend to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 11. Rest day.

Rest in the base camp.

Day 12. Rest day. Preparation for the ascent.

Rest in the base camp, packing for the ascent.

Day 13. Trek to Camp 1 (4,400 m).

You already have acclimatization and path takes less time and effort.

Day 14. Trek to Camp 2 (5300 m).

We leave at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin Peak. Moving on crampons in a rope team, crossing glacial cracks. Conducted after acclimation transition requires less time and effort. Overnight in tents in camp number 2. Self-cooking.

Day 15. Trek to Camp 3 (6,100 m).

We leave at 9 am. In some meters a steep rise to the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again a steep ascent to the top of the Razdelnaya peak. Moving on crampons in rope team. The average time is 4-6 hours. You already have acclimatization and path takes less time and effort. Overnight in camp 3, Self-cooking.

Day 16. Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak 7,134 m. And descent to Camp 3 (6,100 m).

We leave before dawn. Moving on crampons in rope team. Move along a wide ridge to a steep snow-ice rise –

“Knife” at an altitude of 6,700 m. There is a fixed rope. Further along the wide snowy fields and stony hills to the

top.

Important! If climbers did not reach the summit before 14:00, they must turn back and descend to Camp 3

Day 17. Descent to the Camp 1 (4,400 m).

Early in the morning, we descend from camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving on crampons in rope team. Lunch in camp 1. Rest.

Day 18. Descent to the Base Camp.

Trek to the base camp. The baggage can be sent by horse (for an additional fee). Handing certificates to those who ascend the summit.

Day 19. Reserve day

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 20. Transfer from Achik-Tash to Osh. Hotel accommodation.

After breakfast, we will be organized transfer from Base Camp to Osh. You will be delivered to the hotel.

Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.

After early breakfast, our driver will be taken you to the airport for the morning flight from Osh to Bishkek. In Bishkek, you will be met and taken to the 3* hotel.

Day 22. Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.

The driver will take you from the hotel at the necessary time and take you to the airport on the right flight.

 

*Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness

could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last-minute changes. This period will also

include rest days taken at Base Camp.

 

We offer for your expedition as full package services as a small package service.

There are 3 types of full packages via Osh and via Bishkek. If you arrived in Bishkek, please consider one of the full package named Bishkek-Bishkek.

Notes:

  • the representative of our company will meet you at the airport

  • We invite you to visit our office in Bishkek. Here you can meet our manager and get the necessary documents

  • If you have a flight from Bishkek to Osh in the morning our driver will pick you up at 5:00 or 5:30 and drive you to the airport

  • If you arrive directly to Osh early in the morning you can have a rest for 1-2 hours in our office in Osh

  • Before your way to BC, you can have a cup of coffee and have a snack in our office in Osh

  • On the way to BC, you will stop for lunch in the local family and one photo stop

  • Upon arrival at the camp, the head of our BC will meet you and help you with accommodation

 

If you arrived directly at Osh, you can choose any package named Osh-Osh.

FULL PACKAGES BISHKEK-BISHKEK:

I. The cost of full packages Bishkek – Bishkek №1 in 2020 - 1,280 USD/person 

Given the cost of the full package, Bishkek-Bishkek №1 includes: 

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)

  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport. Transfer to/from the hotel

  • Transfer Osh - Base Camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh (according to schedule)

  • Transfer Base Camp - Lukovaya valley - Base Camp (according to schedule)

  • Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge! Extra kilo is 2-3 USD)

  • Accommodation in the hotel with breakfast for 4 nights in total during the program. Check-in 14:00, check-out 12:00. (*please consider early check-in in the hotels are not included and will be calculated as extra night)

  • Supplying with the radio contact on the route

  • Registration with the rescue team

  • Ecological fee

II. The cost of full packages Bishkek – Bishkek №2 in 2020 - 1,550 USD/person 

Given cost include all service according to full package №1+ additional services:  

  • Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5,300 m, 6,100 m.

III. The cost of full packages Bishkek – Bishkek №3 in 2020 – 1,720 USD/person

Given cost include all service according to full package №1+ additional services:  

  • Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5,300 m, 6,100 m.

  • Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set

  • High altitude food

  • Don`t forget to provide your voucher and copy of insurance to the head of BC and ABC         

  • If you need to rent any equipment let the manager know about it in advance   

  • You may use porter services in all our camps for an extra payment

  • To make a payment in our camps, you can use USD (only cash), or EURO (but the rate is lower than in banks)

  • If you finish your expedition earlier for certain reasons, please inform the heads of camps in advance

  • Note that hotels on departure and arrival might be different

  • If you change your international flight ticket, please let the manager know the info about your new flight

  • Please consider that the package includes a certain amount of nights in the hotels. For extra nights and early check-in/late check-out, you should pay extra

 

FULL PACKAGES OSH-OSH:

I. The cost of full packages Osh-Osh №1 in 2020 - 1,050 USD/person

Given the cost of the full package, Bishkek-Bishkek №1 includes: 

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)

  • Meeting/seeing off at the airport. Transfer to/from the hotel

  • Transfer Osh - Base Camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh (according to schedule)

  • Transfer Base Camp - Lukovaya valley - Base Camp (according to schedule)

  • Accommodation in the hotel with breakfast for 2 nights in total during the program. Check-in 14:00, check-out 12:00. (*please consider early check-in in the hotels are not included and will be calculated as extra night)

  • Supplying with the radio contact on the route

  • Registration with the rescue team

  • Ecological fee

II. The cost of full packages Osh-Osh №2 in 2020 - 1,350 USD/person 

Given cost include all service according to full package №1+ additional services:  

  • Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5,300 m, 6,100 m.

III. The cost of full packages Osh-Osh №3 in 2020 – 1,520 USD/person

Given cost include all service according to full package №1+ additional services:  

  • Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5,300 m, 6,100 m.

  • Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set

  • High altitude food

 

BELOW YOU CAN FIND SERVICES AT OUR CAMPS THAT INCLUDED IN ALL TYPES OF FULL PACKAGES:

Services in the base camp “Achik Tash” on 3,600 m:

Services in the camp 1 on 4,400 m:

Accommodation (without limits of the day) in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity.

Accommodation (without limits of the day) in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms.

Meals – full board.  Buffet types of meal

Meals – full board. Buffet types of meal and early breakfast from 3 to 4 a.m. on request

Guide-consultant’s services

Guide-consultant’s services

Dining-tent, WC, storage,  hot shower

Dining-tent, WC, storage tent, washing room

First aid and consultation the doctor

First aid and consultation the doctor

Electricity 220 V, a permanent source of electricity!

Electricity 220 V, 50 HZ, only in the evening in the dining room, source-generator

 

The cost of full packages does not include:

  • The cost of a Kyrgyz visa

  • International flight

  • Early check-in/late check-out and single accommodation in a hotel

  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary

  • Beverages and meals not included in the main menu (a meal in the cities and Camp 2, Camp 3)

  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)

  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending

  • The rent of group and personal mountaineering equipment for ascending

FIXED DATE GUIDED GROUP EXPEDITION

For your convenience in 2020, we organize seven group departures with fixed dates.

                                                         Duration of the programs:

Bishkek – Bishkek (22 days)

Osh – Osh (20 days)

30.06-21.07

01.07 – 20.07

07.07-28.07

08.07 – 27.07

14.07-04.08

15.07 – 03.08

21.07-11.08

22.07 – 10.08

28.07-18.08

29.07 – 17.08

04.08-25.08

05.08 – 24.08

11.08-01.09

12.08 – 31.08

 

Cost of the guided expedition Bishkek – Bishkek in 2020:  2,180 USD person.

Cost of the guided expedition Osh – Osh in 2020:   1,980 USD per person.

Given cost includes services of full package №1 plus additional services:  

  • Service of experienced high altitude guide

  • Guaranteed installed high altitude tents (2 pax in one tent) on 5,300 m, 6,100 m

  • Group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.

  • High altitude food

*Please look throw day by day program above. Note that this fixed date guided program includes only 3 nights hotel accommodation in Bishkek-Bishkek package and 2 nights hotel accommodation in the Osh-Osh program.

SMALL PACKAGE

 

The cost of small package in 2020 - 350 USD/person

Given cost includes:

  • Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)

  • Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash BC - Osh

  • Accommodation on the territory of Base Camp and Camp 1 in your tents

  • Using of camp`s infrastructure (hot water, WC, shower)

  • Supplying with the radio contact on the route

  • Registration with the rescue team

  • Ecological fee

  • Consultancy of a doctor

 

LIST OF REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:

 

1. Backpack - 85 liters

2. Sleeping bag -1

3. Sleeping pad – 1

4. Harness – 1

5. Carbines - 4

6. Jumar – 1

7. Crampons– 1

8. Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m

9. Ice ax – 1

10. Sunglasses – 1 or 2

11. Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries

12. Ice screw -2

13. Folding knife – 1

14. Down jacket/parka -1

15. Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit

16. Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1

17. Thermal underwear – 1 suit

18. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants)

19. Polartec gloves -1

20. Over mitts – 1 + windproof -1

21. Warm hat -1

22. Balaclava -1

23. Warm socks -2 pairs

24. Socks

25. Overboots - 1

26. Sun protection cream

27. Figure-8 descender - 1

28. Telescopic Sticks (poles) – 1

29. Avalanche shovel –1 (if you do not use the accommodation in high camps)

30. High altitude boots – 1

31. Trekking boots -1


 

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

 

Schedule of Osh – Achik-Tash BC – Osh transfer:

Osh - BC 

1-3-5-7-8-10-11-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20-22-23-24-25-26-27-28-29-31-1-4-5-7-8-10-12-14-15

BC- Osh

19-21-23-25-26-28-29-31-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25-26-30-31-1

JULY-AUGUST

 

*Please choose in the above transfer schedule the date of your arrival to the Base camp, under it you can find the date recommended for the return transfer to Osh. If you plan to prolong or shorten your expedition, you can choose in the schedule any date convenient for you for the return transfer to Osh. If you can’t make use of our fixed arrival/ departure dates you can always preorder and individual transfer for an extra charge. The cost of an individual transfer can be found in the additional services price-list. If you plan to leave the base camp on the date different than the one reserved by you, you can do so only if there are free not reserved places in a transfer vehicle. The departure on the same required day is only possible if you cover the cost of an individual transfer. We provide transfers by Mercedes microbuses in groups of 10-15 people. Individual transfers are done by 4x4 vehicles or minivans.       

  • The cost of individual transfer to/from Achik-Tash BC – 200 USD/jeep, 250 USD/bus                    

 

GUIDE and PORTER SERVICES

 

  • The cost of guide services for the full program – 1,800 USD
    One guide works with a maximum of 3 climbers throughout the program,  starting with the Base Camp "Achik-Tash" and ending with the Base Camp "Achik-Tash".

  • The cost of porter services:   
    “Achik-Tash” BC (3,600 m)  – Camp 1 (4,400 m):        3 USD/kg
    Camp 1 (4,400 m) – Camp 2 (5,300 m):                        8 USD/кg

Camp 2 (5,300 m) – Camp 3 (6,100 m):                       10 USD/kg 
Camp 1 (4,400 m) – Camp 3 (6,100 m):                       18 USD/kg

 

 

 

ATTENTION! To participate in the Lenin Peak expedition, the purchase of an insurance policy is OBLIGATORY!

Below you can check the list of our requirements for the insurance policy.

1) GLOBAL VOYAGER CAN NOT INTERVENE as an insurance company assistant. Our company does not work with GLOBAL VOYAGER assistant. In case the client has purchased an insurance policy in any company whose assistant is GLOBAL VOYAGER, medical and transportation expenses will be borne by the client involved

2) The sum of the policy must cover not less than USD 30,000,00

3) In the field "occupation" (or "sports practice") "Mountaineering" must be notified

4) As Country of stay - Kyrgyzstan

5) The effective dates of the insurance policy must be included and coincide with the dates of Stay in Kyrgyzstan

6) The insurance policy must cover at least "first aid" and "transportation of the injured" by helicopter if necessary. The amount of coverage for the "transportation of the injured" must be at least $ 10,000,00 (be sure of this point to be included during the formalization of the insurance policy)

RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE RELIABILITY OF THE INSURANCE COMPANY AND FOR THE ACCORDANCE OF INSURANCE POLICY TO THE AK-SAI TRAVEL DEMANDS HOLDS BY THE OWNER OF INSURANCE.

 

​​

Khan-Tengri Peak (7,010 m)

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between the 5th of July and the 30th of August in 2020.

 

     The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is, without doubt, the Jewel of the Tian Shan. It is the second-highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Mountains of Heaven'.

     Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.

     We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections that require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50 ft at 6,800 m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice ax is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40 o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6,000 m). The Col is narrow and heavily cornices and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6,200 m, 6,400 m, and 6,700 m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700 m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20 m which is severe in the standard.

Above this, the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife-edged snow ridge of some 50 m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300 m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

 

Basic program - 21 days

1 Day: Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation in a hotel.

2 Day: Drive Bishkek - Karkara (460 km), accommodation at Karkara Base Camp.

3 Day: Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4,000 m).

4 Day: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

5 Day: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

6 Day: Camp 1. 4,200 m

7 Day: Camp 2. 5,300 m

8 Day: Camp 3. 5,900 m

9 Day: Descend to BC

10 Day: Day of rest and preparation

11 Day: Day of rest and preparation

12 Day: Camp 1

13 Day: Camp 3

14 Day: Camp 4- 6,400 m

15 Day: Ascend to summit 7,010 m and descend to Camp 3.

16 Day: Descend to BC

17 Day: Reserve day in case of bad weather

18 Day: Reserve day in case of bad weather

19 Day: Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel

20 Day: Free day in Bishkek.

21 Day: Transfer to Airport

 

Schedule of helicopter flights in 2020:

July

5, 9, 12, 14, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 26, 28, 29, 30

August

1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 13, 17, 18, 20, 22, 26, 27

The cost of a full package in 2020 is 2,250 USU per person.

 

The full package includes:

  • meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at the railway station in Bishkek;

  • transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek;

  • transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;

  • helicopter flight to BC and back;

  • unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back;

  • Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more than 4 nights only in total!);

  • accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“;

  • free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;

  • consultancy service of local guide;

  • consultancy of the doctor;

  • registration with local Rescue Party;

  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;

  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;

  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;

  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;

  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;

  • frontier zone permit;

  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan (if needed);

The cost of a small package in 2020 is 1,300 USD per person.

Small package includes:

  • helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 5 USD/kg);

  • free usage of toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“;

  • consultancy service of local guide;

  • consultancy of the doctor;

  • registration with local Rescue Party;

  • ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;

  • usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;

  • rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;

  • usage of fixed ropes on the route;

  • change of air-flight and railway tickets;

  • frontier zone permit;

  • official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed);

     The cost for both packages does not include:

  • The cost of the Kyrgyz visa;

  • International flight;

  • All optional deviations from the main itinerary;

  • Beverages and meals not included in the main menu;

  • All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.);

  • The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending;

  • The rent of mountaineering equipment;

 

Guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for the additional payment:

 

Guide services:

1 person – 1,800 USD per guide per program

2 person – 2,000 USD per guide per program

3 person – 2,400 USD per guide per program

 

Additional services at Base Camp:

 

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 USD per program

Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 9 USD per one cartridge

International call by satellite telephone – 4 USD/min

Internet – 5 USD/hour.

 

List of needed equipment:

  • Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set

  • Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates, and dishes.

  • Climbing gear – ice-ax, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots

  • High-altitude food

 

 


 

 

 

Pobeda peak (7,439 м) Classical route (via Dikiy pass)

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active

between the 5th of  July and the 27th of August in 2020.

Pobeda Peak is a tough mountain. Firstly, it is the world’s ultimate northern mountain of seven-odd thousand meters high (“seventhousander”). Secondly, meteorological conditions of the region are so unpredictable and severe that it deservingly gave a peak a nick-name of “Treacherous Corner”. Even in the summertime, like a bolt from the blue, a snowstorm may burst out here - with the winds blowing at 150km/h and nil visibility - and then, again all of a sudden, it may stop. In winter this region is even more severe. And there is nothing for a mountaineer to do here in the wintertime. Only once, over nearly 70-years long history of exploration, in 1990, mountaineers got to the top of Pobeda in winter, after which event half of the expedition members had to spend quite a time at Sklifasovsky hospital in Moscow, and, as you can guess, not at all for having a rest there.

Till up to 1969, the number of those who succeeded and stayed alive and those who died on the peak was nearly equal. Only after 1969 mountaineers have outscored the deadly statistics. But it does not mean that the mountain has become easier to climb. It is all just about better tactics and some other novelties that helped the case. Of course, more advanced contemporary gear contributed to that, too. Nonetheless, it happens nearly every season that somebody dies in the area – either of falling down or of altitude sickness or of hypothermia. Most often it happens due to human mistakes and stupidity. Still, such objective hazards as avalanches and bad weather should not be discarded, too.

But, as Russians say: ”It is not God, who makes pottery”, - people went to Pobeda before, they keep going there now and, surely, will keep going there in the future. The only wish is: God forbid them of the dead on the mountain. Good mountaineer is a live mountaineer.

 

Basic program – 29 days

 

Day 1. Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer and accommodation in the hotel.

Day 2. Transfer Bishkek – Karkara BC (460 km). Accommodation in Karkara BC

Day 3. Helicopter flight to South Inylchek BC (4,000 m asl).

Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.  

Day 5. Acclimatization and preparation for ascending.  

Day 6.  Camp № 1. 4,200 м

Day 7.  Camp № 2. 5,100 м

Day 8.  Camp № 3. 5,800 м

Day 9.  Descent to BC

Day 10.  Camp № 1. 4,200 м

Day 11.  BC

Day 12.  Rest day

Day 13.  Camp № 1.

Day 14.  Camp № 2.

Day 15.  Camp № 3.

Day 16.  Camp № 4 (6,400 м

Day 17.  Camp № 5 (6,918 м

Day 18.  Camp № 6 (7,100 м

Day 19.  Ascension and descend to Camp № 5

Day 20.  Descend to camp № 3

Day 21.  Descend to camp № 1

Day 22.  Descend to BC

Day 23.  Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 24.  Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 25.  Helicopter flight to Karkara BC. Transfer and accommodation in Bishkek.

Day 26.  Free day in Bishkek.

Day 27.  Transfer to the airport and depart from Bishkek.